Diesel Black Gold’s creative director, Andreas Melbostad, brings an enviable design pedigree to the brand, having held senior positions at Phi, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and Nina Ricci. Since his arrival in 2012, the Renzo Rosso-backed contemporary label has gone into expansion mode. Its first U.K. store, the eleventh worldwide, has just opened in London. That said, Melbostad is still new to the menswear game (he was handed overall creative direction of the label after making a fast start on the women’s side). Spring is only his second season showing Black Gold during the men’s collections. At today’s show, Melbostad pushed an ultra-skinny silhouette. Skinny jeans are not necessarily trending elsewhere this season, and they’ve been excellently worked on other runways in the past—Dior Homme circa 2004, for instance. Motocross leather jackets littered with patches or Keith Haring-like pictographs, while sharp, also seemed familiar. But if there was room for growth and a bit more originality here, there’s no denying that the denim looked high-quality, and there was one camel coat that was a little slice of heaven.
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